Benaras Diaries!!!

Hmmm, when we planned to visit with our friends, being a Shiv Bhakta, I was only keen to visit the Kashi Vishwanath temple and start my 2023 on a beautiful note, amidst other things that every tourist supposedly does as a customary thing in the city. Obviously we will take the over rated boat ride and see the Ganga aarti but whats the big deal about it? Brahmastra had only made the exaggeration even more exaggerated I thought to myself.

Anyways, when we stepped out for a late night walk to Dadhashwamedh ghat, my head did not want to believe what my heart felt. Any picture I clicked, I wondered whether it was a photograph that looked like a painting or was it a canvas that looked like a photo? Unlike the glorified movie version, the spiritual connection in this city was evident.

The entire city boasted of an ancient feel. There was a chill to the air as we walked through the colourful paved roads, dotted with rickshaw drivers, the narrow streets, peeling paint on the sandstone walls, tiny innumerable chai shops, temples in every nook and cranny, niches filled with skilled Paanwalla’s, pillared balconies with intricate jali work. At this hour the streets seemed quiet, almost serene.

Aloo-kachori, Tamatar chaat and freshly made Idlis looked super delicious. So we ventured off to find these promised tasty treats. I was impressed by how intense the operation looked at the Kaashi Chaat Bhandar, multiple hands served and even more sat behind, spooning the delicious delicacies being handed out one after the other.

Next morning, we headed to Dhamek Stupa, where Lord Buddha preached the first sermon to His five disciples after attaining enlightenment in Bodh Gaya. Veneering sandstone cylindrical structure which draws thousands of international tourists dates back to Ashokan period. Although we had more fun in being fooled by the local guide into clicking pictures with fake laughing buddha before we finally reached the aesthetically designed masterpiece.

Evening was surely much awaited. It was time to return to the waters, this time to visit Dashashwamedh Ghat for the evening Ganga aarti. Oh how could I forget! Divya would not let me move down without putting the Chandan tika with trishul on my forehead. Felt funny bigtime and yet soaked in the Varanasi charisma!!!

Anyways, we trodded down the staircases on the Ghat which lead down into the waters of the Ganga. As our boat slowly chugged along the river, stretching to around 80 odd Ghats, we were bessemerized as each ghat unfurled a different style of architecture- Old houses, Brijwasi palace, Munshi Ghat, ashrams, ornate temples, and haphazardly built homes. Our boat paused, and as the engine died down, we hovered in near silence and I sat in awe, watching on as the sky slowly turn from Prussian blue to cobalt and finally deep dark and still.

We glided back to the docks where thousands upon thousands of people were here to witness the colourful event in all its divine glory. We were near the back of the pack in our wooden boat slowly crashing into others as everyone tried to get a view of the ceremony. Thus I gave up on clicking any decent photos and settled into my seat to truly appreciate the magic of the moment. As floating candles balanced on leaves and hovered around us, I felt a clear sense of gratitude pass over me.

After the aarti, the chants and the ringing bells, before I headed back, I paused at the banks of the dark water, cool waves gently probing at my feet, and closed my eyes while I placed the leaf basket delicately into the water. I smiled contently knowing it has been more than what I had expected from this city. This was beyond magical. It was new years eve and I knew that my start had been beyond words.

Even though we missed a guided tour by Nitish at the Benaras Hindu University, I’m not going to lie; it was lot to take in. They say that traditions are age-old in this City of lights which is believed to be the centre of Earth. While for many come to bathe in The Ganga as once in a lifetime journey, for others it marks the end of their lifetime, as their ashes form on the Manikarnika Ghat and fade into the water below. If ever there was a pinch-yourself moment, this was it.

 “I saw that you were perfect, and so I loved you. Then I saw that you were not perfect and I loved you even more.”