Hmmm, when we planned to visit with our friends, being a Shiv Bhakta, I was only keen to visit the Kashi Vishwanath temple and start my 2023 on a beautiful note, amidst other things that every tourist supposedly does as a customary thing in the city. Obviously we will take the over rated boat ride and see the Ganga aarti but whats the big deal about it? Brahmastra had only made the exaggeration even more exaggerated I thought to myself.
Anyways, when we stepped out for a late
night walk to Dadhashwamedh ghat, my head did not want to believe what my heart
felt. Any picture I clicked, I wondered whether it was a photograph that looked
like a painting or was it a canvas that looked like a photo? Unlike the
glorified movie version, the spiritual connection in this city was evident.
The entire city boasted of an ancient feel.
There was a chill to the air as we walked through the colourful paved roads,
dotted with rickshaw drivers, the narrow streets, peeling paint on the sandstone
walls, tiny innumerable chai shops, temples in every nook and cranny, niches
filled with skilled Paanwalla’s, pillared balconies with intricate jali work.
At this hour the streets seemed quiet, almost serene.
Aloo-kachori, Tamatar chaat and freshly
made Idlis looked super delicious. So we ventured off to find these promised
tasty treats. I was impressed by how intense the operation looked at the Kaashi
Chaat Bhandar, multiple hands served and even more sat behind, spooning the
delicious delicacies being handed out one after the other.
Next morning, we headed to Dhamek Stupa, where
Lord Buddha preached the first sermon to His five disciples after attaining
enlightenment in Bodh Gaya. Veneering sandstone cylindrical structure which draws
thousands of international tourists dates back to Ashokan period. Although we
had more fun in being fooled by the local guide into clicking pictures with
fake laughing buddha before we finally reached the aesthetically designed
masterpiece.
Evening was surely much awaited. It was
time to return to the waters, this time to visit Dashashwamedh Ghat for the
evening Ganga aarti.
Oh how could I forget! Divya would not let me move down without putting the Chandan
tika with trishul on my forehead. Felt funny bigtime and yet soaked in the Varanasi
charisma!!!
Anyways, we trodded down the staircases on
the Ghat which lead down into the waters of the Ganga. As our boat slowly chugged
along the river, stretching to around 80 odd Ghats, we were bessemerized as each
ghat unfurled a different style of architecture- Old houses, Brijwasi palace, Munshi
Ghat, ashrams, ornate temples, and haphazardly built homes. Our boat paused,
and as the engine died down, we hovered in near silence and I sat in awe, watching
on as the sky slowly turn from Prussian blue to cobalt and finally deep dark
and still.
We glided back to the docks where thousands upon thousands of people were here to witness the colourful event in all its divine glory. We were near
the back of the pack in our
wooden boat slowly crashing into others as everyone tried to get a view of the
ceremony. Thus I gave up on clicking any decent photos and settled into my seat to truly
appreciate the magic of the moment.
As floating candles balanced on leaves and hovered around us, I felt a clear sense of gratitude pass over me.
After the aarti, the chants
and the ringing bells, before I headed back, I paused at the banks of the dark
water, cool waves gently probing at my feet, and closed my eyes while I placed the
leaf basket delicately into the water. I smiled contently knowing it has been more
than what I had expected from this city. This was beyond magical. It was
new years eve and I knew that my start had been beyond words.
Even though we missed a guided tour by
Nitish at the Benaras Hindu University, I’m not going to lie; it was lot to
take in. They say that traditions are age-old in this City of lights which is
believed to be the centre of Earth. While for many come to bathe in The Ganga as
once in a lifetime journey, for others it marks the end of their lifetime, as
their ashes form on the Manikarnika Ghat and fade into the water below. If ever
there was a pinch-yourself moment, this was it.
“I saw that you were perfect, and so I loved you. Then I saw that you were not perfect and I loved you even more.”
